Record of Shenzhen-Spanish Coaches' Exchange (3, 4)
2018-07-08 15:01:02
Second, technology in foreign countries, contact rock climbing has begun training rock climbing technology. Technical training is prior to physical training, and technology refers mainly to techniques when climbing. Here are a few basic ways:
1. Single point of contact training
Select a fulcrum on a rock wall filled with fulcrums (the fulcrum selection is determined by the climber's climber level, beginners can choose very good fulcrums, and high-level climbers can choose fulcrum points that are more difficult to catch). Grab one hand, then use the other hand to touch the other fulcrum around you, you can constantly adjust the posture of the body, the foot can be used arbitrarily, the more fulcrums it touches the better, the only restriction is that your hand can not leave the initial You choose the point, and you can't change hands. This game can be divided into a group of several people, in the form of games to see the group's performance is good.
2. Single-point grip training
This game is the same as the previous one. The only difference is that you grab one hand, and the other hand does not touch the point next to you, but grasps the point around you, and at the same time you can release the hand that holds the point.
3. Speed ​​training
Choose a route that is less difficult (a traverse route or a line that can be climbed upwards) to climb at different speeds, keep the movements consistent, and do not change hands, keep the uniform strength of both arms, and do not pause.
4. Hands-on training
When climbing a route, your foot can only be the point you have grasped. It is very simple.
5. Slow climb training
Choose an easy route. When you climb from the bottom up, you must slow down. The slower the better. However, it is difficult to maintain a constant increase in body weight.
6. Body symmetry exercises
To design two lines of mirrors, the requirements for the fulcrum at the same position are the same, and only a few fulcrums may be needed. Try to train on these two lines, and you can understand whether or not your development is balanced.
Third, psychological
In terms of psychological training, Spanish coaches speak very little and only give examples. During the training of their players, the coaches played a very noisy broadcast on the side, which made the athletes feel very annoyed, but they must complete the day's training in order to train their mental abilities.
Fourth, strain
Introduce two simple games:
1. Chase game
In the horizontal wall, the trained players move in turn. The rear climber tries to catch up with the climber in front and tries to get rid of it. Be careful not to attack the opponent. The detached player must return to the starting point to start from a new position. This training is suitable. Similar players.
2. Random pointing training
This training requires two people to work together. Fill a fulcrum on a traverse wall or a bouldering wall. One person climbs up. The other person randomly points. The guider can point the climber at any time for hand or foot. This can train the climber on the spot. The ability to adapt can also train the ability of the guide to judge the route.
The above four points are what the Spanish coach will add to each training session. Their training is also based on these four points. It has also been mentioned in the previous article that the training environment in Spain is not very good. Their usual training is basically carried out on a small bouldering wall. Here's an example of how Spanish athletes combine these four points for training.
Put a fulcrum on a wall and design thirty to forty movements, and add two in the middle. Start climbing the pre-designed movements. Don't stop. Hang around in the prescribed place. The coaches will change the designed movements during his climbing to train his resilience. At the same time, he will play the music that the climber hates most. It was noise that made the climber extremely annoyed and forced him to complete today's training.
1. Single point of contact training
Select a fulcrum on a rock wall filled with fulcrums (the fulcrum selection is determined by the climber's climber level, beginners can choose very good fulcrums, and high-level climbers can choose fulcrum points that are more difficult to catch). Grab one hand, then use the other hand to touch the other fulcrum around you, you can constantly adjust the posture of the body, the foot can be used arbitrarily, the more fulcrums it touches the better, the only restriction is that your hand can not leave the initial You choose the point, and you can't change hands. This game can be divided into a group of several people, in the form of games to see the group's performance is good.
2. Single-point grip training
This game is the same as the previous one. The only difference is that you grab one hand, and the other hand does not touch the point next to you, but grasps the point around you, and at the same time you can release the hand that holds the point.
3. Speed ​​training
Choose a route that is less difficult (a traverse route or a line that can be climbed upwards) to climb at different speeds, keep the movements consistent, and do not change hands, keep the uniform strength of both arms, and do not pause.
4. Hands-on training
When climbing a route, your foot can only be the point you have grasped. It is very simple.
5. Slow climb training
Choose an easy route. When you climb from the bottom up, you must slow down. The slower the better. However, it is difficult to maintain a constant increase in body weight.
6. Body symmetry exercises
To design two lines of mirrors, the requirements for the fulcrum at the same position are the same, and only a few fulcrums may be needed. Try to train on these two lines, and you can understand whether or not your development is balanced.
Third, psychological
In terms of psychological training, Spanish coaches speak very little and only give examples. During the training of their players, the coaches played a very noisy broadcast on the side, which made the athletes feel very annoyed, but they must complete the day's training in order to train their mental abilities.
Fourth, strain
Introduce two simple games:
1. Chase game
In the horizontal wall, the trained players move in turn. The rear climber tries to catch up with the climber in front and tries to get rid of it. Be careful not to attack the opponent. The detached player must return to the starting point to start from a new position. This training is suitable. Similar players.
2. Random pointing training
This training requires two people to work together. Fill a fulcrum on a traverse wall or a bouldering wall. One person climbs up. The other person randomly points. The guider can point the climber at any time for hand or foot. This can train the climber on the spot. The ability to adapt can also train the ability of the guide to judge the route.
The above four points are what the Spanish coach will add to each training session. Their training is also based on these four points. It has also been mentioned in the previous article that the training environment in Spain is not very good. Their usual training is basically carried out on a small bouldering wall. Here's an example of how Spanish athletes combine these four points for training.
Put a fulcrum on a wall and design thirty to forty movements, and add two in the middle. Start climbing the pre-designed movements. Don't stop. Hang around in the prescribed place. The coaches will change the designed movements during his climbing to train his resilience. At the same time, he will play the music that the climber hates most. It was noise that made the climber extremely annoyed and forced him to complete today's training.
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