Altun Hill Climbing Route
2019-02-04 14:03:45
South Slope Climb: From Dunhuang, Gansu pass through Jinshankou, down to the foothills, walk about 35 km west of Toléago Dagu to 4,600 meters above sea level at the foot of the main peak of the Altun Mountains. You can go directly to the mountain and follow the valley to an altitude of 5250 meters. , Climbing on a glacier or along a gravel slope, reaching the main peak. The slope is slower than the northern slope and is easy to climb.
Nanpo Campsite Selection: The southern slope is located in the area of ​​the Tuareg Dam and can be stepped up to build 2-3 camps. Adaptation camps can be selected near the old road class of the Cold Lake Highway, and 4,500 meters of the Zhaxi rest camp at the entrance of the mountain pass and 5250 meters of the lower end of the snow basin can be used to establish assault camps, with abundant water sources along the way.
North Slope Climbing: There are three main roads on the North Slope to the foot of the main peak of the Altun Mountains. It is reasonable to select the mountaineering route from Qingshigou by comparing them with the drive route from Akesai County to the road leading to South Xinjiang Ruoqiang before the liberation. 170 kilometers to the river mouth of the mountain pass, enter the river beach road more than 20 kilometers to reach the mouth of Qingshigou, and then walk into the mountain along the ditch.
North Slope Camp Selection
The BH (3600 m base camp) was selected at the entrance of Samsak Mekong. The BH-ABC marches in the Samosak Valley with glacier melting water, but during mountaineering activities (in early August), according to the introduction of the local herdsmen and the hydrologic information of the Qilian Mountain glacier expedition, wearing high boots can involve Water hiking. In addition, during this period, the river valley is narrow, and the narrowest point is only about 10 meters. There are quick sand on the slopes on both sides, and rolling stones occur. Especially in windy and rainy weather, we must pay attention.
The contact twisting and rescue station of the ABC (4300 m ahead of the camp) mountaineering activity is located on the terrace of the Samosake Valley below the end of the glacier tongue at the No. 10 glacier in Samosake gully. ABC-C1 is the glacier tongue area of ​​the No. 10 glacier. It walks on exposed ice and needs to prevent ice from hurting people. Walking between the glaciers and the bare hillsides, beware of the illusion of a flat ice curtain causing a slippage and take care.
C1 (4,900m high mountain camp) is located on the right side of the No.10 glacier (with the direction of the summit of the summit) and the exposed glaciers. C1-C2 is the snow line (belt) topography of the No. 10 glaciers, especially near C2, which is close to the back of the snow basin. For this action, attention should always be paid to the topographic changes of the snow surface. Beware of falling into the ablation well covered by snow, and ablation in the pit; close to the grain snow line, it is a place where the cold and warm junctions, movement changes and other external forces combine, so the vertical and horizontal fissures develop on the glaciers, and various glaciers are formed on the microtopography. Be careful in your actions.
Pay special attention to identifying dark crevices covered by snow. It is in the face of obvious cracks. Do not rush to act. Don't think of any slight contempt. In the case of fissured communities, it is necessary to take a detour to choose a good course. It is necessary to prevent the situation from falling into difficulties and avoid wanting to enter or fail to return to a state of no return. When you pass through cracks that are generally considered to be completely surpassable, treat them with a conservative attitude. When leaping, the means to vacate the feet is not desirable, especially when two altitudes are different. Otherwise, it may cause hate for ages.
The C2 (5,300m) is selected to be able to wear near the western snow-capped snowline on the No. 10 glacier (glacier and exposed hillside), suitable for assault camps. The relative height difference from C2 to the crest is 498 meters, and the horizontal distance is only 1 km. However, climbing on the base rock ridges where the frozen weathered residual ice and residual snow exists, not only bright ice exists, but also the slope is large and it is difficult to walk. C3 is used as a sprint camp. This is determined on the basis of the quality of the climbing team, the performance of the scene and the natural appearance.
Nanpo Campsite Selection: The southern slope is located in the area of ​​the Tuareg Dam and can be stepped up to build 2-3 camps. Adaptation camps can be selected near the old road class of the Cold Lake Highway, and 4,500 meters of the Zhaxi rest camp at the entrance of the mountain pass and 5250 meters of the lower end of the snow basin can be used to establish assault camps, with abundant water sources along the way.
North Slope Climbing: There are three main roads on the North Slope to the foot of the main peak of the Altun Mountains. It is reasonable to select the mountaineering route from Qingshigou by comparing them with the drive route from Akesai County to the road leading to South Xinjiang Ruoqiang before the liberation. 170 kilometers to the river mouth of the mountain pass, enter the river beach road more than 20 kilometers to reach the mouth of Qingshigou, and then walk into the mountain along the ditch.
North Slope Camp Selection
The BH (3600 m base camp) was selected at the entrance of Samsak Mekong. The BH-ABC marches in the Samosak Valley with glacier melting water, but during mountaineering activities (in early August), according to the introduction of the local herdsmen and the hydrologic information of the Qilian Mountain glacier expedition, wearing high boots can involve Water hiking. In addition, during this period, the river valley is narrow, and the narrowest point is only about 10 meters. There are quick sand on the slopes on both sides, and rolling stones occur. Especially in windy and rainy weather, we must pay attention.
The contact twisting and rescue station of the ABC (4300 m ahead of the camp) mountaineering activity is located on the terrace of the Samosake Valley below the end of the glacier tongue at the No. 10 glacier in Samosake gully. ABC-C1 is the glacier tongue area of ​​the No. 10 glacier. It walks on exposed ice and needs to prevent ice from hurting people. Walking between the glaciers and the bare hillsides, beware of the illusion of a flat ice curtain causing a slippage and take care.
C1 (4,900m high mountain camp) is located on the right side of the No.10 glacier (with the direction of the summit of the summit) and the exposed glaciers. C1-C2 is the snow line (belt) topography of the No. 10 glaciers, especially near C2, which is close to the back of the snow basin. For this action, attention should always be paid to the topographic changes of the snow surface. Beware of falling into the ablation well covered by snow, and ablation in the pit; close to the grain snow line, it is a place where the cold and warm junctions, movement changes and other external forces combine, so the vertical and horizontal fissures develop on the glaciers, and various glaciers are formed on the microtopography. Be careful in your actions.
Pay special attention to identifying dark crevices covered by snow. It is in the face of obvious cracks. Do not rush to act. Don't think of any slight contempt. In the case of fissured communities, it is necessary to take a detour to choose a good course. It is necessary to prevent the situation from falling into difficulties and avoid wanting to enter or fail to return to a state of no return. When you pass through cracks that are generally considered to be completely surpassable, treat them with a conservative attitude. When leaping, the means to vacate the feet is not desirable, especially when two altitudes are different. Otherwise, it may cause hate for ages.
The C2 (5,300m) is selected to be able to wear near the western snow-capped snowline on the No. 10 glacier (glacier and exposed hillside), suitable for assault camps. The relative height difference from C2 to the crest is 498 meters, and the horizontal distance is only 1 km. However, climbing on the base rock ridges where the frozen weathered residual ice and residual snow exists, not only bright ice exists, but also the slope is large and it is difficult to walk. C3 is used as a sprint camp. This is determined on the basis of the quality of the climbing team, the performance of the scene and the natural appearance.
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